CALATRAVA
Patek Philippe’s signature collection
was launched in 1932 and came
to represent the epitome of a round
wristwatch. Elegant in its simplicity,
the Calatrava is timekeeping at its
most classically understated.
GOLDEN ELLIPSE
When the Golden Ellipse was
launched it became an instant classic,
perhaps unsurprisingly, because the
distinctive case shape – a rounded
rectangle or linear oval – is based on
the principle of the Golden Section.
GONDOLO
Rigorous geometry and pure
lines of modernism, characteristic
design features of the Art Deco
movement, are recognizable in
the Gondolo collection, inspired
by classic models from the 1930s.
AQUANAUT
Inspired by the Nautilus collection
of elegant sports watches, the
Aquanaut was devised for a younger
audience that had an attachment to
classical values as well as a passion
for modernity.
NAUTILUS
With Patek Philippe’s first
sports watch, the company introduced
a timepiece that was both
rugged and streamlined.
The current Nautilus collection
is a result of the subtle evolution
of the original 1970s models.
COMPLICATIONS
Timekeeping instruments that provide functions beyond
indicating the time and date are called complicated watches.
In Patek Philippe’s workshops, this class of timepiece is
segmented into complications and grand complications.
“Useful” complications offer add-on functions that
are user-friendly, such as the legendary Annual Calendar.
This ingenious complication “knows” how many days each
month has and only needs to be corrected once a year at
the end of February. Another compli cation gaining significance
in the life of present-day nomads is the time-zone
indication as implemented in the Calatrava Travel Time –
it simultaneously displays the local time in two different
zones. This watch is available in a ladies’ version. Patek
Philippe’s World Time watch goes a step further and displays
all 24 time zones at the same time. It is based on a
principle devised by the ingenious Genevan watchmaker
Louis Cottier in the 1930s and perfected and patented by
Patek Philippe in 1999. The mechanism makes it possible
for the wearer to switch the watch easily from one time
zone to the next without compromising the rate accuracy
of the movement. Meanwhile, the moon-phase display
enjoys an enduring popularity. This poetic complication
indicates the gradual day-to-day progression of the moon’s
face in a curved dial aperture. But the mechanism behind
it is more sophisticated than meets the eye. It is so precise
that the display faithfully tracks the true lunation for
122 years and 45 days. Only then must it be corrected by
one day. “Useful” compli cations also include different
types of chronographs from classic manually wound chronographs
with column wheels to innovative self-winding
Annual Calendar chronographs with monocounter.
All these timepieces are crafted in Patek Philippe’s ateliers
in Geneva. Many of them are endowed with an Annual
Calendar mechanism, a moon-phase display, or a powerreserve
indication and they belong to a group of watches
that illustrates the subtle line between “useful” complications
and grand complications.
GRAND COMPLICATIONS
Grand complications represent the paragon of horology
and challenge the watchmaker to the ultimate degree.
This apotheosis of haute horlogerie has been a part of the
Patek Philippe heritage since the company was founded
in 1839. No other watchmaker has been involved in
the highest sphere of horology for such a long time
without interruption; no other company has created
such an impressive portfolio of complicated watches.
With 33 complications, the Calibre 89 was the world’s most
complicated portable timepiece when it was presented in
1989. Grand complications include intricate mechanisms
such as the tourbillon, which compensates variations of
the center of gravity of balance springs in vertical positions,
and the repeater function, which tells the time acoustically
by striking gongs. Split-seconds chronographs also belong
to this category, as do perpetual calendars and various
astronomical indications including sunrise and sunset
displays, and stellar progressions. All these mechanisms are
highly complex and correlated with one another in various
ways. Often, they are enriched with further refinements
such as retrograde displays or instantaneous calendarswitching
mechanisms. A Patek Philippe tourbillon consists
of 31 parts, yet weighs a mere 0.3 grams. Patek Philippe’s
minute repeaters draw on a tradition established over
150 years ago. Their sound as they strike the hours, quarter
hours, and minutes is considered to be the benchmark
of acoustic-time indication. Astronomical watches are
another domain in which Patek Philippe has shown
unprecedented prowess. The Sky Moon Tourbillon is a
prime example: it needs both sides of the watch to accommodate
all of its features. But these grand complications
are not spectacular, one-off showpieces. They belong to
Patek Philippe’s established collection and aptly demonstrate
the excellent skills the Geneva workshops employs
on a daily basis.